Iconic Labels Mainbocher, Herbert Levine Set for Revival
Photo courtesy of Luvanis via Women’s Wear Daily
A vintage corset from Mainbocher.
After restoring Vionnet to its former glory in 2006, businessman Arnaud de Lummen is hoping that lightning will strike twice—er, thrice.
The entrepreneur is shopping around for investors to help him bring two legendary fashion labels back to life, Women's Wear Daily reports.
Those getting a shot at a second act are Herbert Levine, which created shoes for stars like Marilyn Monroe and was credited for popularizing clear plastic heels, stretch boots, and stay-on mules before shuttering in 1975, and Mainbocher, a favorite of Wallis Simpson.
In addition to creating Simpson's wedding dress (now part of the Metropolitan Museum's collection) for her marriage to the Duke of Windsor, the label founded by American couturier Main Rousseau Bocher was famed for its daring '30s-era corsets and celeb-adored evening gowns until it closed in 1971.
Having acquired the rights to Mainbocher in 2009 and boasting one of the top three or four collections of Levine shoes in the world, de Lummen is now ready to breathe new life into the storied brands, as he did with Vionnet.
Photo courtesy of Luvanis via Women’s Wear Daily
A pair of Herbert Levine's Rose Stilettos from the Luvanis collection.
"You start with roots and a history,” he tells WWD. “When you relaunch, you already have a story to tell ... After a few years, people completely forget that the brand was dormant. People think it’s always been there. It’s reassuring to consumers that you’re not a newcomer.”
De Lummen also has a few other "sleeping beauties" that'd he like to relaunch, including trunk and bag specialist Belber, which has been out of business for 42 years. And though he's keeping quiet about other rights owned by his Luvanis SA company, he has hinted that a French fashion house, a French trunk-maker, and an English leather goods brand are also poised for a revival.
So, why a heritage brand? Citing Karl Lagerfeld's takeover of a "wilting" Chanel in the 1980s, de Lummen explains that a luxury brand with a sense of history offers a certain exclusivity for consumers. It's also simpler from a design perspective, as "it's easier to start from something than from a blank page," he says.
“Its history should seduce immediately consumers who are looking for brands with a heritage and real legitimacy," adds Fabrice Figaret, his partner in the Belber relaunch. "There are things which you can’t buy: heritage, history, and time."
Maybe it's time to start rifling through Granny's closet?
