Jason Wu Spring 2012 Review

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Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Jason Wu Spring 2012 runway

SHOW: Jason Wu

THEME: Iconic haute couture shapes with Pop Art influences

ACCESSORIES: Ladylike bags in pastel shades, super-sexy strappy shoes, heavy metal jewelry—think plenty of safety pins—by Tom Binns

HAIR: Odile Gilbert for Kerastase

MAKEUP: Diane Kendal for MAC

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: A witty, youthful collection that will still please the ladies who lunch.

When you think Jason Wu-level collaborators, you might not immediately think of KAWS, the Brooklyn-based former graffiti artist who got his start as an animator and moved on to designing cartoon-inspired toys. Then again, Wu got his start designing dolls.

For Spring 212, Wu put that slightly cartoony spin on his usual doll-worthy pieces: a bubblegum pink sheer trench, ladylike collars embellished with heavy beading, an exaggerated peplum on a Swarovski-embroidered top (worn, appropriately enough, by the doll-faced Lindsey Wixson). He even collaborated with the artist on a colorful petal print.

If it was more youthful than some of Wu’s former collections—it’s an unarguable fact that hot pants work should be worn by no one but endless-legged teenage models—there was still plenty of his polished, uptown fare to please his usual clientele: clean black cigarette pants, lace blouses with chiffon bows, and dresses in feminine florals.

For evening, there was Wu’s signature feathered dress, this season with the feathers peeking out from below a peplum. But what was really new was the shorter-in-front, longer-in-back silhouette of his “floating” skirts and ball gowns. Are real women ready for a return of the mullet hem? Only time will tell—but they sure looked lovely in electric blue, yellow, and shocking pink floating down the runway.