5 New Designers You Need to Know for Fall 2012 NYFW
There are more names on the fashion calendar this season than we know what to do with. Sure, all eyes are going to be on New York's finest (Oscar, Donna, Marc, and the rest of the single-monikered)—but of those labels that are still flying under the radar, how to know which are stars in the making?
Allow us. We've tracked down five newbies that we think have a very bright future ahead, whether they're Parsons dropouts (hey, so was Alexander Wang!) or seasoned vets with Stella McCartney or Narciso Rodriguez on their resumes.
Check out the designs and remember these names!
With internships at Narciso Rodriguez and Marc Jacobs under her belt, Fabiola Arias had another golden moment during her last year at Parsons. Ikram Goldman—she of the famous Chicago boutique and the now iconic pairing of Michelle Obama in Jason Wu—snatched up Fabiola's line of evening wear. From there, eight Neiman Marcus couture salons followed suit, and it's safe to say the Havana native is a rising star in the fashion industry. (Literally: Fashion Group International named her a Rising Star for Ready to Wear in 2011.) With a costume designer mother and filmmaker father, Fabiola's career in creating opulent, elegant clothes seems almost preordained. So what's on tap for next week's Fall/Winter presentation? "I love the ethereal nature of vines, flowers and tree branches…You will see some elements in the collection of textures that resemble rose petals or feathers," she says. Expect nothing but take-notice, stand-out looks, ideal for her clients who want to look "like nobody else in the room."
Anyone who gleans inspiration from "feminine tribeswomen who ride dragons" has our attention immediately. Consider our curiosity peaked, especially since rising upstart Mathieu Mirano names composer Philip Glass as another inspiration, thanks to the designer's classical piano background. His eponymous line just a year old, Mirano left Parsons to strike out on his own, bolstered by an encouraging response to his capsule collection and increasing private commissions. "Perhaps it was rash to leave as early as I did," he says, but "I want to make my own way and define not only my rules but my character." If it sounds like his vision is clear, it is: He's been smitten with fashion since staging amateur productions of the "Wizard of Oz" with his sisters—and trashing their mother's wedding dress in the process. Expect a strong juxtaposition of aesthetics at his collection next week: an emphasis on tailoring coupled with cozier furs and wools, lighter fabrics (think chiffon and organza) paired with dragon and snake-themed elements. Who needs a diploma?
With the modern woman as her inspiration, Suzanne Rae Pelaez's fashion philosophy was founded on a delicate balance between feminist and feminine. Suzanne, who graduated from Parson's School of Design and studied economics at Bryn Mawr College, started her career in the art world, deriving inspiration from the New York gallery scene for her namesake collection, Suzanne Rae. Suzanne, who told FashionEtc that she would love to see Tilda Swinton wearing her clothes, described her ideal client as "a really cool woman who is bold and good. Someone who inspires me to keep designing." Using traditional design methods, along with modern draping techniques and progressive prints, the clothes have a ladylike-chic quality with a definite edge. Suzanne, who lives and designs in Brooklyn, uses sustainable fabrics whenever possible, collaborates with local artists and makes sure 100 percent of production is done in New York City's Garment District. Her Fall 2012 collection is inspired by a mix of poetry, rock-n-roll, and the natural world. "I get inspiration from my surroundings, my friends, Brooklyn. Just about everywhere! Finding inspiration is the fun, easy part."
The name may be a mouthful (hint: Shey-ma-yeh Bee-nee-tee-ay), but it’s worth remembering. Binitie, who earned his stripes while working on Stella McCartney’s design team, showed last season at Lincoln Center with ARISE magazine. And while he’s still based in London, he’s ready for the Big Apple. “The support has been overwhelming in the American market and we felt a need to build on that momentum to truly make the label a global one,” Binitie told us. He calls his muse a “modern icon of strength, beauty and glamour,” and was inspired by couturier Madame Alix Grès—but with a high-tech twist—for his Fall 2012 collection. “Working with a fabric developer in LA, we created a unique embellishment of applying vinyl to fabric,” he said. “We laser cut and pleated fabrics ranging from distressed leather to washed silks, goat fur, and a high tech stretch twill and silk organza blend.” Binitie will show his Fall 2012 collection on Sunday, February 12.
Designer Julie Haus has been on the fashion scene with her eponymous line since her first-ever runway show in September 2008. But when her husband, Jason Alkire, joined her for a new fashion venture, they hit gold—and picked up 2012’s Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation Award for women’s wear. “Being partners in life makes it a 24-7 creative process for us,” the designers wrote in an email. “We share just about every responsibility there is, but we grant veto power to each other on certain things—though neither of us has had to use the veto stamp!” Alkire’s work as a photographer means the prints in the collection are totally original—and that’s not the only thing that sets them apart. “We like texture and progressive detailing when it comes to garment structure,” they said. “Our woman is a bit of an outlaw—modern with a twist.”
