Marni Fall 2011 Review

Marni Fall 2011 collection

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Marni Fall 2011 collection

SHOW: Marni (See the full runway collection)

HAIR: Paul Hanlon

MAKEUP: Tom Pecheux

ACCESSORIES: Perforated bonded-leather clutches and printed purses, constructivist mary janes with platforms, fur gauntlet gloves, oversize earrings

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: Marni strips back on the kooky and goes elegant

There was mention of rigorous shapes and geometry as decoration in the show notes at Marni’s Fall 2011 collection, but what it all boiled down to was the usual Marni mix: crazy patterns, eccentric styling, and lots of wearable clothes.

It didn’t feel completely like business as usual, however, as Consuelo Castiglione reined in her aesthetic a bit, inspired, she said, by the elegance of Martha Graham. We assume that was Graham in the ’20s, given the languid, almost flapperlike silhouettes whooshing about the knee, with glossy, variegated fur coats loosely thrown over the top.

Castiglione also sent out that sack back that has been inflating the silhouette all over Milan this season, though let it be noted she has been experimenting with it for over a decade. Her versions were some of the more elegant and sculptural we’ve seen. The best came in leather bonded to felt, sometimes with panels of fluffy shearling for added texture. The prints were rather subdued, again echoing the Jazz Age, all whirring, vaguely deco motifs in black on white or peridot green, and a few bright contrasts outlined in Lurex or sequins.

Those were an unexpected touch of glitz for Marni—Castiglione’s a fan of a penny-size paillette, for sure, but the slick sheen of sequins doesn’t normally do it for us. This collection felt like Marni grew up a little bit. And it was very welcome indeed.