Haider Ackermann Fall 2012 Review

Haider Ackermann Fall 2012

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Haider Ackermann Fall 2012 runway.

SHOW: Haider Ackermann (See the full collection.)

HAIR: Eugene Souleiman

MAKE-UP: Stephane Marais

ACCESSORIES: Firm leather waist-cinching belts, leather ankle boots and gloves—a resolutely covered-up aesthetic

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: Haider Ackermann offers a vision of everyday, for the Everywoman, without losing his magic vision

Haider Ackermann isn't one of those flighty, fickle fashion designers who change their entire mood and modus operandi by the seasonal flick of a switch. His is a vision always developing and maturing, with collection building upon collection to form a fully-realized whole.

Fall 2012 offered the Haider Ackermann woman something new—a sense of how she would dress for the everyday, and the modern everyday at that. The silhouettes were still elongated and sensual, but sharper, sleeker. They also included staples like wide-leg pants and fitted jackets and knits that could feasibly be worn by any and every woman, not just the coterie of devotees—Tilda Swinton among them—that Ackermann has been gathering around him.

What would new fans be buying into? Ackermann's sense of color for one, this time with unexpected combinations of taupe, pale lilac, mauve and a fall palette of burnt sienna, maroon and scarlet contrasting with royal blue. Add to that the structured lines of his jackets and those wonderful trousers—and indeed the sense of a total look from a single designer that seemed anything but restrictive or monotone—and it felt like something truly different for Ackermann acolytes old and new.