Versace Fall 2012 Review


Photo: Imaxtree

Versace Fall 2012

SHOW: Versace (See the full collection.)

HAIR: Guido Paulo

MAKEUP: Pat McGrath

ACCESSORIES: Sharp bangs, latticework leather boots, hefty clutch-bags in astrakhan or bright leather

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: A heartfelt tribute to Versace's past in turn creates Versace's future.

The bejeweled Byzantine cross was the centerpiece of Donatella Versace's Fall 2012 collection. It was also the centerpiece of the Fall 1997 Atelier Versace collection, a collection that would prove to be the final created by Gianni before his untimely death. Maybe the clamor surrounding the Versace H&M collaboration made Donatella re-examine the house's archives, or indeed the enthusiasm of her young staff around those glory days. Christopher Kane himself examined that 1997 Versace collection for his breakout Central Saint Martins MA show. Donatella evidently felt it was time to pay homage.

This was tough Versace, hard Versace. It was Versace for a warrior and a survivor. Those glittering crosses studded sweaters and leathers, sometimes winking under layers of lace or printed across full-skirted coats. Occasionally they fought with letters spelling out "Versace," printed haphazard across battleground shades of red and chrome yellow.

Breastplates of leather and wool soared protectively across the chest, sometimes outlined with metal rings or inset with shards of silver along hip and breast, while Donatella ran flanks of chainmail (another house signature) up and down dresses and coats. In evening, that broke free to create entire micro-slips from metallic mesh, or floor-length gowns part Medieval Saint, part Silver Screen goddess. It was hard, it was opulent, and it was very very sexy. Quintessential Versace then.