Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2012 Review

calvin klein Spring 2012

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Calvin Klein Spring 2012 collection

Show: Calvin Klein Collection

Theme: Nearly naked glamour, dressed-up in true Costa style.

Accessories: Platform t-straps on super-spindly heels

Hair: Guido Palau

Makeup: Pat McGrath

Overall takeaway: The beauty is in the details in this focused Spring collection.

Calling Francisco Costa a minimalist might not be entirely inaccurate, but it is a bit lazy. Though the Calvin Klein Collection creative director has become known for his super-clean, streamlined silhouette and limited color palette (he does love his neutrals), there's still far too much going on here to deem it simple.

First, the fabrics. For Spring 2012, he pieced together luxuriously glossy silk with crepe and tulle for great plays of texture, while jackets in silk jacquard or cotton crepe had a bit more weight.

Secondly, and more importantly, the cuts. A lineup of slipdresses were similar in concept, but had individual details that were gorgeous: seaming that mimicked retro lingerie and functioned as contouring (hello, flattering!), the slightest peplum at a waist, rows of pintucking down the back, a wrap effect at the bust that exposed a matching bra—they were all, in a word, lovely.

Not every woman wants to (or can) wear a slipdress every day, though, so there were also some fantastic jackets with that same incredibly flattering seaming, some with super-narrow jacquard lapels, some collarless entirely. A few skirts in the same mid-calf length as the dresses moved beautifully, as did wide-leg pants cropped above the ankle.

Restrained, subtle, sleek? Yes. Minimal? No.