Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012 Review

narcisco rodriguez Spring 2012 runway

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Narciso Rodriguez Spring 2012 collection

Show: Narciso Rodriguez

Theme:  The season of volume

Hair: Eugene Souleiman for Wella

Makeup: Dick Page for Shiseido

Accessories: Strappy heels in neutrals and snakeskin

Theme: Narciso’s sexy spring

Volume. That’s the first word we wrote down as the first model walked the Narciso Rodriguez show. His spring 2012 collection took us in a new direction from what we were expecting. The ultra-clean lines, minimal palette, and constricting, body-con looks we're used to weren’t on the agenda. Last season, Rodriguez relaxed his silhouette a bit. This season, he let it loose.

Black and white still dominated the runway, but the minty green we’ve seen at various shows popped up to accent tops and dresses. Red, orange, and silver were all represented, as were prints. (It’s important to note that the models’ hair matched the clothing colors.) This was no minimal collection. Before you decry Rodriguez for abandoning his core audience, breathe easy. His precision with cuts is still exquisite, and still him.

He started the show with a series of outfits which had sheer panels and geometric cutouts, for an almost deconstructed look; sheer tops and dresses were worn with racer-back bras. These looks gave way to more volume, and an ethereal, more Rive Gauche feel. Waists were dropped—though at an angle. Silk dresses were barely held up with straps. The orange and red looks in particular were stunning, toned down with blazers, sexed up with cut-outs, and falling on the body just so.

There’s something to be said for a designer keeping everyone on their toes. And though this collection perhaps will surprise many, it was still rather pretty; the dresses eminently wearable. The jackets and pants were cut well. In short, this is what Narciso does, he just did it with more fabric.