Derek Lam Spring 2012 Review

fashion week diary

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Derek Lam Spring 2012 runway

Show: Derek Lam

Theme: Mid-century leisure at the Kaufmann House in Palm Springs, California

Accessories: Leather, seasnake, and python pumps, clogs, sandals, and wedges, often with woven or appliqué detailing

Hair: Orlando Pita for Phyto

Makeup: Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder

Overall Takeaway: Effortless but always luxurious, Lam scored again with his sunny Spring offering.

It can be hard to psych yourself up for fashion on a Sunday morning in New York City, particularly one as somber as the 10th anniversary of September 11. But Derek Lam’s optimistic and sunny—but not aggressively so—show was just the lift we needed.

In the show notes, Lam said he’d been doing some California dreaming, particularly about the Kaufmann House in Palm Springs. This was evident in the mid-century references seen on the runway, with a little Rat Pack and Angie Dickinson thrown in for good measure. The result? Easy summer glamour in the form of trim little waffle-knit sweaters (belted and worn over knee-length skirts), a simple leather shift dress, and print-on-print paisleys in colors that were bright but at the same time had a somewhat hazy, toned-down appearance.

Though simplicity is often Lam’s MO, details were still worth noting: crochet insets for a slightly artisan touch, patchwork-style panels, and plenty of the luxurious leathers Lam works with so often.

It wasn’t overtly sexy—Lam’s ladies rarely are—but it was comfortable, chic, and ridiculously covetable. Another strong showing from the talented designer.