Market Watch: House of Waris

House of Waris Spring 2012 scarf

How can anyone decline an invitation for tea with Waris Ahluwalia? The charming jeweler, designer, and former secret-service man is always so full of surprises that an hour in his company is not one I’ll forget.

So off I went to his studio at the CFDA Incubator space where he produced tray after covered tray. Oh, the anticipation was building. Like a magician, he unveiled each piece of jewelry, a dazzling array of diamonds, pink sapphires, and rubies (my favorite as always), all in gorgeous gold. The Spring 2012 collection isn’t an overhaul from fall; instead it’s a continuation of themes and ideas he showed us previously. So some favorite items are back but this time in different stones—like the stunning plumage pendant, now in pink sapphires and diamonds. He also added enamel pieces which reminded me a bit of tile work in my relatives' houses. Loved that.

House of Waris Spring 2012 necklace

Also in enamel were his playful new skulls. I have and always will be a skull girl so obviously I was in heaven.

The big thrill (other than when I tried on a ring and hoped no one would notice if I kept it. They did. Sigh.) were the scarves. Introduced last season, Waris has increased the line and designs. He uses artisans in India to create incredible cashmere, silk, and cotton-silk pieces that are one of a kind. Everything is hand-made. My personal favorite is the Roma, a Batik style—the designs are created using wax and dye. The result is incredible. The scarves, luckily for all of us, are available now at Barneys.com and range from $295 to $1,495. Fancy a little shopping? I think I do.

The Spring 2012 jewelry collection will roll into stores starting January.

Photos: The Roma scarf and the Plumage pendant.